The Amber Coast: Puerto Plata, Sosua, Cabarete, La Isabela, Rio San Juan

The eclectic collection of resort destinations strung out along the Amber Coast of the Dominican Republic defies easy categorization. The scope of activities in each city or town is as varied as the topography—a striking mix of mountain backdrops, low-slung beaches and palm-carpeted valleys. If there is one constant to be found throughout the area, it’s amber. This semi-precious jewel is actually a type of tree resin native to the area that has hardened over the millenniums. Upon extraction, the result is an earthy and romantic stone ranging in color from vivid yellow to a more opaque burnt orange.

It was here along the north coast in the 1970s when mass tourism first opened up the island, and in the ensuing years the region developed a special kind of multilayered appeal. But to discover all of this, it’s important to venture outside the main tourism enclave of Puerto Plata. While many tourists do come here to simply relax on Puerto Plata’s outlying golden beaches and maybe play a round of golf or two, the region is also an excellent base for side trips to some of the island’s most intriguing and funky destinations.

Within a 45- to 90-minute drive from the international airport in Puerto Plata, communities such as Sosua, Cabarete and Jarabacoa are fast becoming the darlings of the Dominican Republic. To the west, there is a varied mix of intriguing and beach towns, where amber resin and windsurfing are just two of the region’s signature attractions.

For the more adventurous sightseer and history buff, two towns to the west offer a quirky look into Dominican Republic’s mercantile past. La Isabela Archeological Park is the first European settlement in the New World, and Monte Cristi is ripe with genteel plantation history along the Yaque del Norte river delta. Also, east of Cabarete, Playa Grande (Big Beach) is a new resort development springing up with a gorgeous 18-hole Robert Trent Jones Sr. golf course boasting 10 holes that grace the sea cliffs and azure bays. And nearby, the town of Rio San Juan sports an underground freshwater river with exceedingly romantic riverboat tours leading to the ocean.

Puerto Plata
When Christopher Columbus came upon this natural harbor in 1493, he named it Puerto Plata—the Silver Port—due to the platinum-colored reflections coming off the mist- covered mountains at dawn. Columbus and Governor Nicolas de Ovando quickly seized upon the idea of building a trading post where ships from Spain could deliver goods for all the Spanish colonies. The mountain valleys to the south were thought to be brimming with gold,, while also offering good grazing land for livestock and plenty of arable land. Columbus and Governor Nicolas de Ovando quickly seized upon the idea of building a trading post here where ships from Spain could deliver goods for all the Spanish colonies.

By 1540, the first fortress of the New World was constructed. A historical treasure of the Antilles, El Castillo de San Felipe buttresses the west end of Puerto Plata and anchors the Malecón, a winding promenade running along the shoreline and entire span of the downtown corridor.

After Spanish interests moved on to Santo Domingo, Puerto Rico and Cuba in the 1600s, Puerto Plata was left without any major industry or governing powers. Because of this, the port quickly became a favorite for pirates and smugglers. Over the next few centuries, the city became a rather colorful place as fortunes were won and lost in illicit trade. Sugar, leather, tobacco, slaves and rum were traded between the roustabouts and local merchants. Today, tourists can walk around the old city to see the many Victorian homes laced with delicate gingerbread trim.

The number one attraction in town is the Amber Museum, housed in a two-story neo-classic home built in 1918. The top floor of the museum features a wealth of exhibits examining the history of amber’s exploration, along with rare amber samples containing ancient fossils within the resin. Tiny insects and leaves that get collected in the resin create exotic designs, and some of the fossilized stones are worth as much as $50,000. Set in a neo-classic home built in 1918, the museum’s amber collection and historical exhibits are located upstairs. Meanwhile, on the museum’s ground floor, there’s a well-stocked shop selling a wide range of bright amber baubles in all price ranges.

Just outside of town, the Teleférico (cable car) ride to the top of Isabel del Torres mountain offers stunning views of the entire town and the northern coast. At the summit, a Cristo Redentor (Christ the Savior) statue protects the souls below, much like the monolithic Christ figure overlooking Río de Janeiro. Another reason to make the trip are the brilliantly colored flowers and other interesting flora found in the botanical gardens.

For beachgoers, one of the island’s most picturesque strands of sand is Cofresí Beach, a small scalloped cove where the sun rises through a swath of palm trees at the bay’s point. This is an absolute must for romantics. Wake up early to join the small collection of couples walking barefoot and holding hands every morning while sipping on a good cup of strong Dominican coffee.

Sosua
Many tourists come to Puerto Plata and never make it the 16 miles to Sosua. That’s a shame. Wrapped on three sides by lush green mountains, Sosua Beach, which is in the El Batey section of town, is a picture-postcard crescent bay with some of the bluest and calmest water in the Caribbean. Plop down on the brilliant white, sandy beach or swim in the warm ocean waters, while cheery waiters bring affordable drinks to your chaise lounge propped up under a large umbrella.

This is also a great place to shop and eat barefoot. Back behind the beachfront wall of tall swaying palm trees, dozens of shop owners sell their colorful wares, while small restaurants housed in rustic tiki bars offer a welcome respite from the sun.

Overall, Sosua is a kind of throwback to the classic Caribbean resort town built out of a charming fishing village that’s getting harder and harder to find these days. The local community is primarily made up of expatriates from around the world. Once an important haven for Jewish settlers escaping persecution in Europe during World War II, the beach town is home to a synagogue that welcomes all faiths -- and that pretty much sums up life here. There’s a little bit of this and a little bit of that and a whole lot of harmony thanks in no small part to the drop--dead gorgeous setting.

The town’s cuisine reflects Sosua’s multi-cultural heritage. Spanish, German, French and Italian dishes are served in a variety of venues, from casual bistros to fine-dining establishments that offer stirring bayside views.

Cabarete
There is simply nowhere else in the Caribbean like the bustling little seaside town of Cabarete—nothing even remotely close. One hour east of Puerto Plata, Cabarete is the windsurfing capital of the Caribbean due to the consistent trade winds and a sheltered cove. There’s even an expansive “bozo beach”—windsurfing slang for a safe place where newbies can practice or bail out when they start to veer off course. On any given day, The sea can be filled with more than 50 of the brightly colored sail boards flying across the top of the waves, and lessons are available for those who want to learn.

However, the scene on the beach itself is as equally entertaining as that on the sea. Every month, thousands of young, tanned and lithe 20-something types who are windsurf enthusiasts come from around the world to test the local waters and down the Presidente beer at Cabarete. The resulting milieu is a bohemian blend of cultures where visitors from as far away as New Zealand, Japan and South Africa sail among wizened locals who can make a sailboard dance on its head. But if windsurfing just isn’t your thing, period, there’s still plenty to do. Some of the island’s largest adventure tour operators offer packages, including explorations into the caves of Cabarete, horseback riding, hiking, and bird-watching, either at Laguna Cabarete behind town or around the lush and leafy countryside.

Of course, with all these surf bums running around Cabarete, there’s a wildly eclectic supply of buzzing beachside bars and restaurants serving cuisine not generally associated with the Dominican Republic. This culinary diversity is another of Cabarete’s many delights. Ever since 1988 when the beach town hosted the Windsurfing World Cup, the dining infrastructure continues to grow with new Mayan-themed bars and Hawaiian-themed restaurants. Delicious fare like Thai peanut chicken sticks, lobster linguine, and the freshest escargot on the island may even spur visitors to spontaneously book a local hotel for the night. But whether you go for the day or decide to stay a while, make sure you get out here. It’s infinitely worth the drive.

MUSTS

• Visit the shop at Puerto Plata’s Amber Museum to browse the exotic displays of Amber jewelry.
• Walk along Cofresií Beach at sunrise. Make sure to get there early because the scene is best when the sun first pokes through the strand of palm trees at the edge of the bay.
• Visit the Castillo de San Felipe in Puerto Plata. It is the oldest fort in the Western Hemisphere.
• Have lunch in Cabarete after watching the many windsurfers work their magic. Even better: take a lesson yourself and then have lunch.
• Go shopping barefoot behind the palm trees lining Sosua Beach.

Photos Courtesy of The Dominican Republic Ministry of Tourism

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